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tricopter build guide Scarab 660

Tricopter build Guide 

 the Scarab tricopter 660 is a simple build -- it does requires soldering skill to assemble the PDB  - ability to use hand tools such as the pro-tool 1/16" - ability to understanding how Loctite™ is used on threads of critical screws and grub screws  (and also how to heat screws with a soldering iron tip to soften Loctite - then remove grub screws without damaging the heads)

RISK - New users must understand RISK in hobby FPV aviation DIY - as the builder you will become the manufacturer and legally responsible for the conduct of the aircraft  - see T&C link bottom of all pages to for a better understanding of RISK in RC drones - don't expose yourself to risks

Tools used / required - all tools below are Excluded 

  1. Hakko FX888 temperature controlled soldering iron ; or similar
  2. Amtech 223 flux paste for soldering correctly
  3. Wire strippers
  4. Wire cutters
  5. small long nose pliers
  6. Hex tool 2mm
  7. Hex Tool 1.57mm pro tool 1/16th "
  8. Phillips #1
  9. Diamond file round "O" tip
  10. Diamond file flat
  11. Loctite - blue
  12. 12mm spanner for GoPro nut
  13. 5.5 socket for nylon nuts - optional


Assemble stages overview

  1. 8 Balls assembly   
  2. component assembly
  3. tailboom assembly
  4. installation of PDB
  5. booms assembly
  6. booms install
  7. diamond file of inner tubes
  8. lockdown of booms
  9. install 8 balls
  10. install front landing gear
  11. install rear right side landing gear
  12. install servo lower mount bolt
  13. loctite Balls and M2 nut to servo horn arm
  14. install link rod - final alignment
  15. install left side rear landing gear
  16. complete electronics install - items not included - diy)
  17. install top palte outer ring -tighten 12 M2*8 screws
  18. close top centre maintenance plate
  19. final adjustment of rotating tsilboom servo mount upper M3 bolt



8 Balls assembly   

Install the GoPro holder ; then use the round file to dull the edges of the 8 carbon holes so they are NOT sharp ; then add the 8 gell balls into the carbon plate 


Carefully pull the silicon balls through the holes in the metal plate - be sure to align the front ball ; add the 2 compression bands 


insert the grub screws M3X6 into the outer holes of the DELRIN clamps - only screw them down a few turns - these will be tightened at the end of the build - later


Insert the 8 smaller grub screws into the 2 x collet rings - only insert them a few turns - these will be tightened later


Dull down the sharp edges of the lower MAIN plate with a diamond file - insert the 16 x 21mm post and secure LIGHTLY/loose (not tight) with M2 x 8 bolts using the pro-tool 1/16" "

Install the PDB with nylon standoffs post M3x6 and hold the plate with nylon bolts phillips


slide the pitch-change-rm over the rear tail boom - leave it loose atm


slide the boom holders down over the posts ; NOTE the front booms holders are ALUMINIUM left 7 right - the front = delrin and the rear = delrin


use a diamond file to smooth the edges of the INNER tubes - this is important to prevent motor wires from being chaffed later on - do both ends of all tubes


Slide the lower boom holder clamps down ; the LOWER LEFT/RIGHT are METAL - CNC aluminium - the front and rear are Delrin




install the booms into position ; add the ball to the pitch change arm


assemble the engine coolers/holders loosely at first - then slide them over the tubes afterward and tighten




use the 4 x shorter M2*6 screws in the INNER RIGHT position to hold the clamps closed - do not over tighten these atm


 when these are in place it should look like this


install the 8-balls gello-killer sadle clamp lightly - then slide over the 40mm front carbon tube and tighten 2 x M3*8


flip the frame over and install the 2 x M3*12 screws with penny-washers into the metal boom holder centre holes - tighten 


install the right-rear landing gear by itself with M2*10


attach the servo - ONLY by one bolt the lower M3*8 - tighten the lower bolt - insert the upper M3*8 bolt but leave it LOOSE - important


the ball should be inserted into the 2nd hole from centre - use BLUE loctite™ to hold the nut secure - RISK - if the ball comes loose you will loose control of the tricopter and crash

do not over tighten the ball - make sure the Loctite glue holds the ball firm - not over tight


the link rod - the open side of the rod ends has a shinny "ring" - the closed side is matt - make sure the open sides are opposite

carefully press the rod end until it clicks over the ball - the balls will be VERY tight - to loosen them heat with ahair-dryer and "work" the rod end back and forth until loose - this process seats the balls to the rod ends


flip the frame over and install the left rear landing gear with 2 x M2*10 using the Pro-tool 1/116"


flip it back over and install the outer top plate - ; then the inner top plate as well

make sure to tighten the M2 bolts on the REAR boom holder - both top and bottom now _ FIRST ; use a 1/16" pro tool only  ; then fianlly the SERVO upper M3 bolt (blue driver 2nd lastly after the clamps are compressed by the small M2)




install the top plate inner access 


install all the remaining upper  M2 bolts M2*8 with 1/16" tool ; finally tighten all the grub screws ; tighten the screw enough to HOLD the carbon - if you over-tighten these grubs you can crack the carbon tubes - be aware - take care


 Go over the entire frame M2 with the 1/16" tool and ensure all are tight - both sides upper & lower

the FRAME build is completed




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