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Scarab QuadOcta building guide

 the Scarab QuadOcta 700 is a simple build -- it does require the ability to use hand tools such as the pro-tool 1/16" - ability to understanding how Loctite™ is used on threads of critical screws and grub screws  (and also how to heat screws with a soldering iron tip to soften Loctite - then remove grub screws without damaging the heads)

RISK - New users must understand RISK in hobby FPV aviation DIY - as the builder you will become the manufacturer and legally responsible for the conduct of the aircraft  - don't expose yourself to risks

Tools used / required - all tools below are Excluded 

  1. Hakko FX888 temperature controlled soldering iron ; or similar (only used if CarbonBird 30a ESC or additional device soldered to PDB - are used)
  2. Amtech 223 flux paste for soldering correctly (for 30a ESC version)
  3. Wire strippers
  4. Wire cutters
  5. small long nose pliers
  6. Hex tool 2mm
  7. Hex Tool 1.57mm pro tool 1/16th "
  8. Phillips #1
  9. Diamond file round "O" tip
  10. Diamond file flat
  11. Loctite - blue
  12. 12mm spanner for GoPro nut
  13. 5.5 socket for nylon nuts - optional


Assemble stages overview

  1. diamond file dulling, of inner tubes and frame

  2. boom assembly

  3. installing motors
  4. installation of PDB
  5. installing ESC's
  6. Alignment of the compression grips
  7. booms insert and hold
  8. lockdown of booms
  9. installing the tail section
  10. Syncronising the ESC's via Y-lead and RC THRO
  11. preparing the battery tray and strap
  12. Closing the airframe
  13. completing the tail
  14. install landing gear - options
  15. installing the dome
  16. installing the Line-of-sight LED Andromeda system (optional)
  17. other options



the carbon edges are sharp and there is a risk of cutting insulation - remove this risk by using a diamond file to dull the inner and outer edges of the tubes







The engine mounts are assembled with the M3*12 bolts first ; then slid over the booms afterward


finally tighten the bolts evenly - do not overtighten one side with the other side lose! - so a few turns per side bolt - then inspect for even gap




 Motors - insert the 3 phase wires down the tubes ; notice above the orientation of the mount




 The wires should extend out the tubes as shown.



initially mount the motor with 2 M3*6 bolts just enough to seat them - DO NOT over tighten the bolts !



Double check you are not mounting the motor incorrectly as above




Now remove one bolt at a time and apply Loctite™ to the bolt - tighten



 Complete all the motor mounts


 Make sure not to use too much Loctite™ as excess represents a Risk to bearings ! Bearing require oil - Bolts require Loctite™ - the 2 should never mix



The solid plate is generally used for the TOP side - This suits pilots who require a FLAT top deck for mounting the AutoPilot such as PX4 Pixhawk 32 - QuadOcta is assembled upside-down in this choice



Attach 4 standoffs to the M3 inserts above - do not over tighten them - the steel inserts are normally on the opposite side to the standoffs - but this choice shown keeps the deck on the other side 100% flat and clear of protrusions.

Decision time - it is NOT shown here but if you intend to mount the Andromeda  later on - NOW IS THE TIME to move the insert to the other side - then add 4 x additional Standoffs (not shown) to the thoer side and use the 4 black nylon nuts on this side - if you miss this out now - then later on it's quite difficult to add the nuts as this section will be inside the closed frame.  



Use side cutters to trim the nylon bolts flush above



Mount the PDB on the nylon standoffs and use the nylon bolts - Do not over tighten these nylons - no need



ESC's install for 18a - the ESC is mounted as shown above and held by a zip-tie



install 4 ESC as shown above




Alignment of the boom holder compression system.  This is an important phase to understand - the boom holders slide over these posts with a very fine tolerance and MUST be perfectly aligned.

The Process is simple. Firstly use the M2*8 bolts and the 21mm post - attach them loosely so they can move sideways freely and leave a 0.5mm gap at the base



It is VERY important all 4 post are Loose at this point. above



Now secondly slide both halves over the posts - the LOWER section is DELRIN™ and the upper part in the photo (above) is metal !! at this stage the M2 screws are still quite loose.



Note the photo above - use your left hand to compress the assembly ; then slowly tighten the M2 bolts as shown - this ensures they are perfectly aligned !




Once all 4 bolts are tight ; then flip over and check the upper METAL half is free to slide - ! it should come OFF and go back one perfectly.



Complete the other 3 boom holder post alignment phase above



Use M2*12 and two M2 washers - attach to two 21mm aluminum posts as shown above - DO NOT overtighten yet - loose is OK atm




uBEC - Attach the 5.00v uBEC now using Velcro™ - connect to PDB by the JST - feed the lead back thru the plate.



Each holder is designed to have the INNER right bolt fitted BEFORE the plate - if you look at the plate you will see that hole is enlarged.  Use a M2*5 in each holder - this one bolt holds the booms inplace - so that they do NOT flop around during initial motor tests and allows the entire plate to be removed without the booms falling off.



Only install one M2*5 per boom - as shown above



Intially the motors will be upside down - this allows them to be run and for you to check rotation direction - later they will be rolled over 180° (remeber you are building the QuadOcta upside=down atm




Now is the time to run the motors and check all ESCs - check motor directions and set ESC learning curve.



Connect the supplied 4:1 Y-Lead to the Rx THRO (throttle) channel - for FrSky is is channel 1 above




ESC LEARNING CURVE - it's vital all ESCs are SYNCHRONIZED - work together equally -  ESCs can "learn the throttle range" - it is important to select the correct range 1100-1900 uSEC being sent to them when learning - or they will learn bad-data.  (100% range in Taranis) - if an ESC sees a high throttle setting when it is first powered up - it will consider that the pilot wishes to program the ESC throttle range.  

initially the Rx and ESC are OFF - not powered up

  1. Please note that the motors are all connected to their ESC's (the sounds come from the motors - not the ESC) - the Y-Lead connect all 4 ESCs directly to the Rx - THRO ch
  2. Bind the Rx to the Radio (if not already done do it now)
  3. Set the throttle to max UP (props MUST be off - not fitted) - Tx is already ON
  4. NOW connec tthe LiPo to Power all ESC and the Rx - the Rx will see 100% throttle and the ESCs will BEEP TWICE - BEEP BEEP
  5. immediately reduce the throttle on the Tx to 0% - throttle down - the ESCs will BEEP 4 times for 4s - BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP - learning is completed





The above photo seems like a duplicate - but now is the time to check all motor directions - the motors must turn in pairs-opposite - CW or CCW depending on the flight controller - For a Quad-X the front motors advancing balde is one the outside - the rear advance prop blade on the inside.  a motor can be reversed by changing (swapping) over any 2 of the 3 wires



Final checks before closing up - now is the time to check and secure all wires - after this point is will be difficult to tidy up the wiring




The plate above is the lower plate in must instances (you can choose otherwise if you wish to access the drone from the top - however once completed the top usually has the AutoPilot and is not a small job to remove. It depends on the type and size of the IMU to be used.Here we are going to mount the battery underneath and the autopilot will go in the flat upper deck - so this plate shown will hold the battery - access to the ESCs will be by way of the belly.

Dull down the sharp edges with tha diamond file.   insert the battery strap as shown.



CLOSING UP - this is big milestone - make sure you have double checked everything - if you are intending to fit the Andromeda to the top later - make sure you have already installed the double sets of standoffs with nylon bolts. see above 

To close up you will need to be sure not to pinch any wires in the carbon - apply 3 x M2*8 bolts to each section, as per above.




Check the motor direction and tilt 4° at this point - then tighten evenly




Completing the TAIL - use M2 washers and add the other side of the tail.




The tail use a red standoff hed by M3 bolts - as shown above




Landing gear - single bolt retention system - The gear is held by a single M3*12 bolt and a penny-washer - the 4 holes align exactly to the bolt-heads under them - this locks the postion - whilst the single bolt holds the gear

You can choose to mount the gear either side? to the right or the left (swap the piece in pairs) - Normally we keep the rear gear "in" and spread the front gear "wide" to keek the camera FOV wide as possible. This also creates more of a triangle and alows for landing on less even surfaces - as is the property of a three legged stool that does not rock




NOTE - Double check you are screwing the bolt above, into metal - the metal section-halves are facing up in this photo - (they will be on the bottom once flying - the landing gear bolts to the metal halves !




Here the rear gear is assembled "inward"




here above the front gear is assembled "outwards"




shown from the front side - lower view




shown from the front side - upper view




the dome is held by 4 bolts - M3*8 - The pilot must grind 4 small "indents" into the dome - if you look closely the dome has factory mold markers at 90°,180°,270° and 360° is a guide 






This photo shows how the bolts hold the dome - to remove the dome you only need to remove one bolt - then clip the dome off by squeezing it - slightly




LOS LEd's - the Andromeda system gives full pilot ORIENTATION by way of ultra-bright LED's - BLUE=front ; RED=Back (optional fit)











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