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  • Drone motor - highly efficient 2kg class - CarbonBird R15 Y6 Motor - NMB - 888kva - all-in-one 6mm PA
  • Drone motor - highly efficient 2kg class - CarbonBird R15 Y6 Motor - NMB - 888kva - all-in-one 6mm PA
  • Drone motor - highly efficient 2kg class - CarbonBird R15 Y6 Motor - NMB - 888kva - all-in-one 6mm PA
  • Drone motor - highly efficient 2kg class - CarbonBird R15 Y6 Motor - NMB - 888kva - long 300mm wires and 2mm GBC included
  • Drone motor - highly efficient 2kg class - CarbonBird R15 Y6 Motor - NMB - 888kva - all-in-one 6mm PA
  • Efficiency Chart - the 12 x 4.5 HQ prop achieves the highest efficiency of  8.28g/watt

CarbonBird R15 Motor - NMB - 888kva - 6mm PA 2213

Shipping Weight:
98.00 Grams
Stock Remaining:

Product Description

The new 2017  888kv R15 CarbonBird 300W 2213 core motors are designed for extreme performance with New CNC for 2017 -  even better cooling flow, the elimination of the "circlip" and the integrated 6mm PA now part of the bell itself - combined with dual grub screws -  large main bearing, ribbed can design for great surface area cooling of the magnets and a new radial cooling fan. The motor also ships with a lighter M6 nut to reduce inertial forces 


  • True 300w motor (10 sec takeoff burst) - 4th gen - Suits single motor ; or CO-AXIAL ; also
  • perfect as Fixed Wing FPV twins such as MyTwinDream Motor or X-UAV Clouds (this motor produces 1.3kg thrust per motor) ; fixed wing FPV singles such as mini talon or Skywalker - 
  • made for  SCARAB Reconn - Scarab Vampire , Scarab YSiix and Scarab Quad/Octa 
  • Integrated PA 6mm - all-in-one bell + PA
  • Elimination of the circlip design
  • Dual Grub screw - redundancy
  • 200°C copper windings 24T,  888kva for 4S 1060 or 4S 1150 props  
  • tested with the new 12" x 45 prop here 
  • The ideal prop range for these motors on 4s (16.8->12v) is 10"->12"  ;  with variations being 10x5  or 11x5 or 12x4.5 - see chart HERE
  • Full 320mm 20AWG multicore wires with 2mm long GBC
  • Superior NMB™ bearings 
  • Light weight - LOW Inertia  - faster RPM changes - whilst large dimeter disc motors have motor torque they also have less efficient magnets and more inertia which is bad for smooth rpm changes
  • 16mm and 19mm mounting holes M3 bolts - 3.5mm bevel supplied
  • "X"mount included
Dimensions & Specs
  • 28D x 32.0h  -see photo at top right    (PA shaft + 18mm long)
  • 16mm and 19mm mounting holes
  • Colour -  RED / black 
  • 63.6g including 320mm wires and GBC - includes PA and M6 nut
  • No-load Current (Medium timing) - 12.0v ; 0.45Amp - 4S 16.34v ; 0.52Amp 13,733rpm
  • internal resistance  0.145 Ω ohms
  • 24T 12Stator/14magnets
  • 1 x CarbonBird 888kv R15 2213 Motor with 320mm wires ; integrated PA 6mm ; 3.5mm male GBC connectors pre-soldered
  • Includes "X" mount and 4*M3 taped screws for mounting the "X" to the motor



  • Motor balancing tape HERE - motor is factory balanced but if your super-pro and want to balance the motor/prop to silkiness - this tape is the bomb
  • We recommend Loctite™ - NOTE :screws  - this type of glue stops screws coming undone over time - Loctite glue is VERY hard at room temp or lower temps <35°c - to release any screw with loctite, simply heat it with your girl-friends hair dryer set to max heat (keep away from carbon)- heat the bolt so it is too hot to touch with your finger (85°C) - then the glue will become soft like butter and the M3 or M2 screw can be "released".  For M2 screws use the 1/16th Pro-tool here

Efficiency & Prop Selection - see chart below (click to enlarge)

 R15 motor vs Prop ; comparison of prop sizes to g/watt efficiency achieved

Initial Setup & long term Maintenance:  Tips for care and setup of CarbonBird Motors

  • RC Aviation requires discipline, inspection, security checks and risk analysis - Multicopter motors and prop-adapter must be 100% secure and form part of the critical aircraft flight system - checking their security become your duty of care when purchased and built.
  • WARNING ! If a motor/prop fails a model it will fall from the sky and may possibly cause harm to person or property below - Always do a full pre-flight inspection on the motors ; A post flight temperature check for thermal stress (hot motor)
SMS Risk reduction includes : -
  1. The motor is designed to be attached/mounted with 2 x M3 screws - make sure you do NOT use longer screws which will penetrate too far into the motor. the 2 screws should only enter 3-4mm into the baseplate (not go further into the motor).  use loctite™
  2. Grub Screw - check the grub screw for security(tightness) - /Remove and add Blue Loctite® to the shaft grub screw - make sure Loctite® does not enter any bearing!  Always heat the engine to 100°C-110°C (domestic hairdryer on hot) before trying to remove a grub screw held by loctite glue.  Loctite becomes very soft when hot.  Alignment of the grub screw locks the shaft so be sure to get alignment of the "flat" when you apply the shaft to the bell - pro tip ; we usually use a Dremel to grind a ramp on the shaft this prevents shaft creep - you can also grind a "flat" on any shaft to use it in any postion or depth to suit your needs - you don't have to use the default "flat" spot - just make a new "flat" if needed, as long as the shaft has 270° of round surface it wont float. 
  3. The tension of the 2 main bears is set by the grub screw to circlip distance - there should be no axial play - removing any gap and setting this pressure (the flex in the circlip itself) will govern the smoothness or noise level and even effect the video if unchecked - be sure to set it accurately.  In some instances you will need to grind a "flat" onto the shaft for the grub.
  4. Carefully apply 1 small drop of OIL to each bearing every 5 hours flight time - with a syringe & needle (new SAE20-50 motor oil) - allow the oil to soak in for 1 min; wipe away all excess oil - oil traps abrasive dust!
  5. Avoid all dusty Landing/Takeoff zones - We recommend Ops from a dust-free rooftop LZ on a 4WD/SUV vehicle or a 1.5m circular plywood dust-free Helipad on the ground to prevent any dust ingress to the bearings.  Abrasive dust entering bearings will shorten the effective life dramatically - inspect the bearings for wear and replace if worn -Spin the motor - Magnetic cogging will slow and stop the motor which is normal - check for any wear or abnormal sound/roughness/dryness or non-linear friction indicating a bearing failure. 
  6. Use high pressure air (can of compressed air - or air line) to clean any sand,dust, grass or dirt away from an engine after every flight.  Do NOT take off and land in sand, dirt or dust! Doing so introduce abrasive dust into the bearings and seriously shorten the life of bearings.
  7. Inspect the wires to ensure the insulation is in-tact and not pulled - jerked or broken
  8. Use Blue Loctite® to mount the engine screws to the carbon/G10 engine holder.  Check the engine mounting screws never penetrate too far into the engine & short the winding wires
  9. Inspect the prop for any fatigue cracks or white stress lines - immediately repalce any prop suspected of weakness - Routinely replace props every 10 flight hours.
  10. if the motor is observed to be showing some initial warning sign - AN INDICATOR - stutter, hesitation or play noted by the pilot but not considered to be a risk by the pilot - and he decided to continue flight ; consider fully the RISK ; this can cause subsequent engine failure and total loss of your aircraft if it has less than six engines. Be aware -
    Risk - guard against 
    • ingestion of FOD (foreign object damage) dirt, dust, stones or ferris iron debris which can enter the motor during take off and landing - causing trauma (cuts) to the windings or insulation of the windings, damage to bearings
    • breakage of one or more of the internal lead-in stator winding wires by stress (pulling of the wires during ground handling or assembly) - or mount screw too long which enter the motor and damage the wires.  Lead wires damage, can be caused in incorrectly handling or twisting of the wires, crash impact tension, carrying the craft by gripping the motor assembly wires causing a wire-break inside a motor.
    • Wire insulation damage - Make sure wires are not cut by sharp carbon - use a diamond file to dull any sharp carbon near the wire path
    • magnetic variation - de-magnetising of one or more magnets by placing the magnets on or against other motors/magnets or in magnetic fields - tapping against metal objects of the can of the motor - this partial de-magnetisation can cause the ESC to overheat the engine because the timing cannot be accurately determined by the ESC. Thermal run-away - engine overheats because it is effectively overloaded - Copter is too heavy.  Overheated magnets are permanently ruined.
    • dry-joints or inconsistent  loose push-connections/soldering between an ESC and a motor leading to timing faults - if one of the three connections is loose or not 100% soldered correct - Should you observe ANY motor hesitation or stutter on first power applied 10% throttle - immediately cut power - do not Power-up further or you will blow the ESC  - DO NOT FLY especially relevant for long wiring runs or self soldered joints - USE solder paste - use a Digital Multimeter DMM to check all 3 wires show the same Resistance in ohms - check the wires for breakage or shorts.  Save your ESC by careful observation of problem indicators.
    • Shorting of any motor wire(s) internally to the metal/carbon booms or too the airframe- INSULATION of ALL WIRES annd joints is vital.  - short of the insulation from sharp carbon edges not filed smooth during construction - leading to timing problems or stuttering - Should you observe ANY motor hesitation or stutter - DO NOT FLY - replace the motor /wires/ESC as applicable to the fault - Beginner fault to observe AN INDICATOR - such as hestition then continue to fly - delibrately blowing the ESc - leading to failure and a crash - Pro-Pilots discontinue flight/Land at the slightest hint of a problem - because they realise that warnings are only given once. 
    • Poor bearing maintenance lubrication and/or exposure/ingress of abrasive dust leading to bearing breakdown
    • Failure to balance the motor/prop leading to wear and tear. Check closely for security ; tighness of all componenets ; security of the grub screws, circlips and the bell. Be vigilent to check for variations in gaps your pre-flight on all engines  
    • Post crash damage re-use - Pease consider a crash has trasferred massive forces to the motor. a sudden stop from Prop Stike can have drastic effects on a motor turning at 7000 rpm. Check the bell and magnets to ensure they are 100% true and secure after crash. Change a shaft involved in a prop strike.
    • Shaft slippage due to the grub screw flling out from lack of Loctite™
    it's VITAL to monitor the temps of all engines on the post-flight check, avoid operations where FOD. dust is a risk and keep motors padded in transport.  It is also recommend to ground the aircraft and 100% locate the cause of any abnormal performance item.
  • NEVER fit the propellers to a motor until AFTER you have fully Tested and set-up the motor and YOU understand that electric motors can start suddenly without any warning.  With proper understanding and maintenance the motors are safe.
  • NEVER run a propeller without FIRST balancing it on a magnetic balancer
  • Do a staic and a dynamic balance of all props for best results
  • Do a hand Maiden - before any flight maiden;  to observe all engines running normally under power applied condition - and all controls responding correctly.
  • During the hand maiden feel the airframe for vibration levels - there should be none - smooth - vibration indicates an out of balance motor/prop and must be traced and balanced.

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