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  • best looking   250 Drone racer - Scarab Knife 270 r2 T-Motor  PARIS AIR32 - FPV Trainer USA
  • No soldering required best looking   250 Drone racer - Scarab Knife 270 r2 T-Motor  PARIS AIR32 - FPV Trainer USA
  • No soldering required best looking   250 Drone racer - Scarab Knife 270 r2 T-Motor  PARIS AIR32 - FPV Trainer USA
  • No soldering required best looking   250 Drone racer - Scarab Knife 270 r2 T-Motor  PARIS AIR32 - FPV Trainer USA
  • No soldering required best looking   250 Drone racer - Scarab Knife 270 r2 T-Motor  PARIS AIR32 - FPV Trainer USA
  •  best looking   250 Drone racer - Scarab Knife 270 r2 T-Motor  PARIS AIR32 - FPV Trainer USA
  • smaller than you think... but also ridiculously fast and handle any wind
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  • attach all four booms using M3*6 ss bolts
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  • Install the Red stand-offs - size and position as per this photo for rear LiPo
  • Cut then add soft Velcro to LiPo lower side
  • This Photo shows Alternate "mid" Lipo for FPV cam only Ops ; 25mm standoff move to Centre
  • Optional FPV camera and screws. penny washer (NOT included) - SS nut goes to top side - use loctite
  • Last thing - install lower plate with M3*6
  • Use diamond file to dull down vibration deck sharp edges
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  • Remove 5mm insert and install into props lower side
  • Optional FPV camera and screws. penny washer (NOT included) - SS nut goes to bottom side
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  • effective 18 Aug 2015 - now includes the 18a ESC OPTO
  • For Hero•32 r1 5.0v Vcc is connected to centre pins for ESC 1-6 ; however for newer Hero•32 r2 the 5.0v Vcc must be connected to M3 or M3 ESC centre pins as the other 2 pins are now used for OSD data output -  see blue/green circles in product description section this page
  • Hero•32 r2 OSD R&T pins now external - these pins CANNOT be ised for Vcc supply - connect the uBEC Pololu or andromeda v2r2 to right side pins as shown here
  • Scarab Knife 270 Black Motors install - build upside down - solder ESC direct to black motors
  • Scarab Knife 270 Black Motors install 02
  • Scarab Knife 270 Black Motors install 03
  • Scarab Knife 270 Black Motors install 04
  • Scarab Knife 270 + AIR3 Betaflight motor numbers Q1-Q4

Scarab Knife 270 r2 Racer AIR3 F3 - FPV mini QuadRacer Carbon - electronica

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420.00 Grams
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Product Description

2017 SCARAB Knife r2 270mm mini Quad - this version is the  BLACK HERO•32 (Naze) edition OneShot/BLHeli kit   

The Knife Airframe (rated 5/5 Stars by USA RC Groups) is designed to be ultra light / strong carbon airframe at only 125g (125g with camera isolation mount deck as per photos above), yet super-strong -  small enough to be flown indoors when its raining outside or raced outdoors in any wind condition - flown fast and furious -  fitted with a PARIS AIR 3 Hero•32 and features our original Scarab style dead-cat profile with a full isolated front deck on 4 gell balls to carry an HD video camera such as the Yi Cam.  The 3mm CF booms are ribbed to reduce drag by micro separation of the boundary layer under the props.  There are no nuts - all M3 SS bolts screw directly to embedded M3 inserts - and all hardware is either Stainless Steel or Aluminium.  The carbon used in the Knife is different - stronger. More Layers.  Also important was a flexible battery location for either sideways mount or longitudinal mount using the CarbonBird 3S1500 21mm liPo. Standard electronic include the Flight-Controller Hero•32 ; T-motors ; BLHeli CarbonBird ESC ; Power distribution ; HQProps ; isolation deck ;  as a kit - see photos above for assembly and text below. 

  • Why 270mm? - the design size is determined by the width of the camera deck to hold a 40x60mm HD camera with "zero" gello between the front 5-6" props and no props in the shot - unlike other Quads which are unstable in roll axis due their high CG geometry, the Knife is super stable because motor centres sit on the circular plane and the CG is low - yet still allow the HD camera an absolute un-obstructed prop-free view of the fast moving terrain in front.
  • Why are the motors attached the top plate? - science - lower C of G = more stable - the weight lies below - Designed to be stable
  • Why are there so many holes in the frame? - 1) weight reduction with compromise to strength 2) Speed - ensure air pressure does do build up on the top surface in fast forward flight.
  • Where are the landing gear? - Mini Quads don't need or use landing gear - it is best to land on lawn grass until you have the skills to land and take off from your hand (always wear eye protection - props can cut!) if you are going to fly in a concrete area use standoffs HERE to prevent abrasion on the concrete
  • Why Knife? - a Knife is man's core tech in the hands of a man who knows how to keep it sharp, and use safely.  Keep it light - cut thru the air. 
  • What is the take-off weight? <500g with everything - HD isolation deck - FPV gear - 3S1500 LiPo - Quite too - stealthy.  We recommend a Light-weight build.  Adding heavy objects will add weight and reduce performance - avoid heavy RC gear, avoid large cameras, avoid heavy FPV Tx's - the goal is to fly as light as possible. 
  • I have a Phantom - can i fly this?  Franky, NO it's likely beyond your level atm - You must use the FPV Freerider SIM HERE to develop skills and relfexes - - Phantoms/NAZA fly themselves and don't require/develop any human co-ordination skills that are transferrable to racers, because phantom/naza was always intended to be a robotic plutonic experience giving limited in-direct motors response control and total reliance on Auto-level Acc and BARO (founder of dji is not a pilot and dji's overall objective is to remove the need to even be a pilot and replace it with robotics) - You need to use the SIMULATOR - as the truth is the Knife requires real human pilot skill and relexes - you are going to need to be able to roll quickly to 360° and dodge fast moving low level objects in a fraction of a second and this is not something a robot can do better than a human with skills developed - If you can fly the flight Sim without crashing, then you are ready to fly a Knife.  If you refuse to learn pilot SKILLs - then you will be trapped in dji-alice-n-naza-land forever.  So we recommend to get the SIM connect it to your Taranis and learn co-ordination skills - within a few weeks on the Simulator you will have real life-long skills.  Flying any racer with a naza is going to be a lame experience as naza auto modes  atti / gps are limited to 35° bank and this product is intended for full 360° rotations.
  • LEDs Included - Includes RED/BLUE LEDs for racing or indoor ops - yes included (effective 12 June 2015)












  • For CabonBird 18a BLHeli OPTO ESC setup information - see 18a ESC page wiki HERE
  • For Motor setup and care - see Motor page wiki HERE
  • For PARIS Sirius™ Air Hero•32 autopilot setup - see AIR Hero•32 page HERE
  • For 200mw FPV Tx Freq info - see page wiki here
  • For 3s1500 LiPo Care and charging info - see LiPo page wiki Here
  • For RC Rx connections to AIR - See the AIR wiki page here 
  • For Taranis X4R or X8R SBus - use the 3 pin RC wire and move the white wire to pin RC4 HERE
  • For Pololu BEC connection in M1 - connect as per this Photo HERE
  • For X4R live voltage telemetry, wire up a FBVS-01 as per this photo
  • For Arming/Disarming use the Cheat Sheet HERE - Do NOT arm unless you have eye protection
  • For Mobius setup see the Mobius page HERE
  • PARIS AIR3 Hero•32 requires no coding to setup or fly - All you have to do is connect it correctly - then (with props OFF) connect to the BetaFlight Chrome UI and set your RC Tx to 1095/1500/1905 - recommend NOT UPDATE any firmware until after you have flown it and taken a SCREEN CAPTURE of our original PIDs & settings -  if you later decide to install a newer firmware version at some point in the future (See AIR3 Page this site)  - new versions of BetFlight cannot read from/by older UI versions, or older saved pids !  Pls don't become one of those forum stories where you bricked a perfect flight controller from assuming its the AIR  (When its a PC issue) , then updating to the wrong firmware and wiping all settings in the process :(      - your AIR3 Hero•32 arrives tested and ready - all PIDs are setup - check your RC Tx Channels are all 1095/1500/1905 in the UI - check your mode switches - practice ARMING and dis-ARMING safely without props - then do your hand-maiden tests - then final Fly. The ONLY thing you MUST do is set your RC radio Tx 1095/1500/1905 values and check them in the PC UI see HERE    - Note - if the drone is sitting on your desktop for long periods use a USB fan to blow cooling air  over it.


Kit Includes 
r2 AIRFRAME hardware

  • 4-balls video-gello killer VRS GoPro Session camera deck extreme front - no props in view (1.0mm 5-Layers 3K weave CF 65x65mm for mobius size 40g cameras)
  • 4 x 108x27mm engine mount Booms - 3.0mm CarbonFibre 2-Layers 3k weave and 20 layers uni inside 90°/0° alternate - Motor mount holes are 2.0mmØ at 12mmØ (6) and 16mmØ(2)
  • 1 x 250x125mm 2.0mm 2-Layers Full 3K weave and 10 layers uni inside 90°/0° alternate carbon top plate
  • 1 x 250x80mm 1.5mm 2-Layers Full 3k weave and 8 layers uni inside 90°/0° alternate Carbon Lower  plate
  • 2 x 22mm RED anodised CNC standoffs (front )
  • 2 x 25mm RED standoffs (2nd position from front)
  • 4 x 30mm RED anodised stand offs (2 x rear positions) - the C of G on the side spines - the battery can be mount sideways, or at the back if a Mobius/Replay/Yi Camera mini is added - see photos
  • 1 x set props 6x4.5 HQ Props as per photos - 2 CW + 2 CCW - pre-balanced - these are high speed FPv props 
  • 28+2 x M3*5 SS bolts 
  • 8+1 x M2*6 SS bolts for mounting motors - 2 bolts per motor (see photos)
  • 1 x tension band (tilts the back of the camera deck up slightly by squashing the 2 rear gel balls down)
  • 1 x velcro battery strap - this is used  to prevent the LiPo lifting off the adhesive-velcro (next item)
  • 1 x Velcro adhesive must be attached to the battery lower side - and the frame where you place the LiPo - this velcro stops the battery sliding
  • 5 x zip ties - (for ESCs and wires)
  • 2 x Long Zipties - for antenna mounting

f-logo.png Social Group - consider joining the FB SCARAB-Club - this page is NOT run by us - it is a FB social site for Scarab Pilots to go as a "3rd Place retreat" and hang out with other pilots and shoot the breeze. - Don't just be a lurker - share your experiences with the group.


  • includes PARIS Sirius™ AIR3 HERO autopilot - PolyCarb Version F3
  • includes 4*Tiger T-Motor 1806 motors 2300kv - with 5mm PA and RED nut - 2mm GBC fitted
  • includes 4*Carbonbird 490hz 18a OPTO ESC BLHeli 13.1 pre-coded and set - Active ESC Braking BLHELI 1-shot enabled - better response
  • includes micro 5v BEC - pololu
  • includes 4*thermal pads for ESC mounting - nothing mounts more efficiently
  • includes XT60 5 way power distribution lead - plug-n-play - no soldering
  • Instructions for a PARIS AIR3 Hero•32 are online 
  • Instructions for ESC's with BLHeli 1-shot are on the 18a OPTO ESC page here 
  • BONUS - CarbonBird "PILOT" sew-on patch 200mmx90mm - not available to phantom operators - badge of honour for real "pilots"

Downloads at GITHub - The Hero•32 Black Racer comes coded and ready as per your selection above BF/CF/BetaF -  to fly all you need to do is configure your Taranis RC Tx and confirm switches in the Chrome UI on PC/Mac
Scarab Knife 270 wiring diagram for HERO-32 flight controller

Instructions -  the Build work flow is   -> 1) build and setup RC Tx calibration 1095/1500/1905 & set your Failsafe 2) Learn ARMING & dis-ARMING without props - then test run without props 3) power test with props in hand held test (hand maiden) 4) Go to a location with low RISK = Long soft grass - no people -> hover test 5) final flight test by skilled pilot (if you are new to it use the SIM first) . - Knife is very easy to screw together - NO SOLDERING (some FPV custom gear will require soldering depending on what combination you choose)  ;; = air3-betaflight-motor-numbers.jpg

  • Instructions  Sharp carbon can cut wires and is highly conductive so First thing, for the CF plates dull down all the edges with a diamond file (not included) areas which must be dull are any holes where wires will pass thru ; any sharp points which might puncture a LiPo need to be dulled - install the four motors to the booms using two short M2*6 SS (see photos) - then assemble as per the photos above starting with attaching the booms to the top deck. Then install the RED stand offs 22/25/30/30- if you are running a heavy HD camera at the front the final place for the LiPo will be the rear - if you are installing only a 25g FPV camera then the final spot for the LiPo will be sideways (see photos).  Position your RC Rx AWAY from the ESCs by at least 50mm.  Leave the lower deck until last after all the electronics and motors are fitted (see photos above for wire routing)  - then attach the lower deck with 8*M3 screws last.  Balance - the geometric centre of a Knife is marked by the tips of the side spines - when held on the spines it should tip forwards slightly with everything installed and about to fly.  The correct size battery is designed to be held in place by the friction of one piece of female velcro in the slots.  If you decide to fly an HD camera like a Replay or Yi/GoPro Cam, then use the velcro battery strap around the LiPo in the rear location too.  
  • • Keep your Rx >55mm from any ESC.  ESC produce switching noise interferance that you don't want going near your Rx, or your Rx antenna.
    • Balance your motors and props if you want a superior machine for HD Video - see copper tape HERE (not included)
    • Mount your antenna on zip ties at 45° well clear of the fuselage - include in this kit - Carbon can block RF signals even at short range  - make sure your failsafe is programmed and checked with props off first - see antenna position in  photos on our InstaGram page
    • Test all motors and ESC in a Hand-Maiden, by holding full power for 10 secs and then full battery run at 50% with a prop on (wear eye protection) - a hand-maiden test - if any motor hesitates shut down and see below - After a successful hand maiden - 
  • Older Racers wiki - pre 18.8.2015 with 12a BEC ESCs please note ->disconnect 3 red wires from 3 x ESC's inputs to the the AIR (apply heatshrink) and leave only one ESC BEC RED wire to feed 5.0v to the PARIS AIR.  PARIS AIR uses approx 55ma and one ESC can supply 500ma - so one ESC is plenty of 5v power. For further info on ESC heat see the 12a ESC page question 4 
  • warning-multiwiicopter-safety-symbols.jpg
    • SAFETY WARNING Excludes RC setup and failsafe setup - Risk vs Safety to others must be considered fully by the pilot  in advance of your first flight - If you crash you can damage your Knife - your risk - You must decide what's going to be your failsafe pre-set setup and program the Rx with Failsafe settings - this is something THE PILOT does himself - FYI failsafe by Futaba/Spektrum/Taranis/FrSky is stored in the receiver (the Baseflight fa failsafe should never be used for one of these advance Tx/Rx setups - it is for ultra cheap cloneking Rx with no failsafe - So if you have a good brand of Radio like Taranis then we recommend you pre-set the failsafe in the Rx itself for all controls and mode switches) - NEVER fly out of range at high altitude - never fly out of sight LOS rule is very clear - you must keep sight of your Quad at all times - after you hit a tree branch (i.e. high risk flying, doing something beyond your level - we recommend you do NOT copy advanced pilots videos if you are a noob) - so after a crash/impact you have to cut & disarm the motors by RC as soon as it's DOWN - this means even if you cannot see your Quad, you may still be sending RC signals to drive the props and motors - this can lead to a burnt ESC/motors situation with noobs who have not thought out whats going to happen if they leave their throttle high or have their failsafe high.  We recommend you immediately set throttle to Zero and disarm within seconds after a crash touchdown - NOTE this - but, it's your decision as the pilot what Failsafe throttle setting and mode you want and what kind of flying/risks you are prepared to take both to yourself, others and finally of least importance but something to consider, your equipment (ESCs still commanded to turn after impact) - We recommend you rehearse your emergency procedures in advance - copter down procedure, and drill this - so when you have a crash you know what to do, exactly.  We Strongly recommend you program a failsafe into your Rx for slow descent 1200-1300uSec (depending on props) in Horizon Mode - then bind/set failsafe - this reduces risk to others - always fly at least 50m away from people or property of others such as cars etc 


 Requires Assembly (no soldering - approx 10 minutes for the airframe excluding electronics) - You will need INOX lanolin lubricant spray for ESC connectors and JST plugs HERE tools needed are 2.0mm hex and 1/16th " hex drivers sold here ; a fine diamond file

  • Excludes 1*3S1500mah LiPo or 4s1500 - (effective 21/Oct/2015 LiPo is no longer included in the kit price reduced -to allow pilot to choose their own Voltage - 3s or 4s above)
  • Excludes USB->micro USB cable here
  • Excludes training - Join Scarab Club - get help from the online community who all crossed this bridge themselves
  • Excludes printed instruction - pls come back to this page for instructions - please read everything on this page and study the photos, click on small photos to see them bigger - ask the Club guys if not sure - don't be shy
  • Excludes Travel case (below) Photo
  • carry-drone-batteries-carry-on-baggage-airlines.jpg
  • Excludes GPS  - FPV racer pilots don't use or need GPS - flying low and thru obstacles requires/developes SKILL - GPS is at the other extreme box-with-button-drone operators - no skills  - so this product suits co-ordinated skilled gamer/FPV "Pilots" , usually they develop skill on the SIM first - then they race/fly on goggles here - When they experience loss of signal or hit a tree, they cut power (failsafe setting for a FPV racer is cut power) - the ESC/motors will beep after 2mins (setting) to help locate this Knife. The HERO•32 will support future GPS i2c connection but atm the software is not available - we are working on it for RTH (return to home) recovery use.
  • Excludes RC receiver  - for Taranis we recommend X4R-SB +as the Hero•32 has native Sbus support which will give you 4 Aux Ch  ;;; for Futaba use the TFR4 and code for C-PPM  ; For Spekrtum see the notes on the Hero•32 page here
  • Excludes Loctite thread locker glue
  • Excludes FPV ground side gear  and ground-station - above right ; excludes goggles
  • Requires adult supervision - this is not a TOY - for men its a seriously fast aerobatic FPV adrenaline escape (or fast women)
  • Excludes Radio control Tx/Rx 
  • Excludes Replay XD 1080 mini or the amazing HD-Yi HD cameras

  • Excludes LiPo Charger ; Recommend iCharger
  • Battery charger power supply

FREE SHIPPING details on the shipping page

Note - effective 16 Feb 2015 CF is revised slightly in light of customer feedback 

Excludes sensors - this example below an A2 voltage is supplied by using a FBVS-01 - this has been DIY soldered to pins(not included) for the LiPo balance tab as shown here below with FrSky X4R A2 port connected to the FBVS-01 and the 3S LiPo Pins - the A2 voltage is then activated in the Taranis telemetry section and a Play Value assigned to a switch.


Battery security - When the battery is mounted sideways as shown - place a small piece of Hook-side-velcro on the lower frame plate in the centre aligned to allow you to slide the battery into place from the yellow XT60 side - and a bigger longer piece of loop-velcro on the Lipo as shown in the photo above - this will secure the lipo for all flight conditions ; yet still allow some movement in a crash event (which is desireable to reduce extreme G on the LiPo) - so in summary a battery mounted above - sideways - does NOT use a battery strap.

Noob Quad Pilot tips 
Question - Does it glide or autorotate? Does it float? what happens if a wire(s) comes undone inflight - Answer  =  Quads DO NOT glide, and do NOT float, if you crash it then you will break props if the ground is hard   - if any single wire is compromised (shorted or disconnected or over-volted), or battery is exhausted, or a prop breaks inflight from a previous crash, then your Quad will immmediately tumble to the ground and be damaged at your own risk (noob pilots MUST choose a field with LONG SOFT GRASS ! = no damage from crashes - don't be tempted to copy pro-pilots and fly over hard ground at sports fields in your first few months - go to a location with LONG SOFT GRASS - we cannot emphasise this enough) - if you ever see this happening (crash) cut power to stop the motors/prop mid air before gnd contact. To prevent this from ever happening you need to be very clear about several things - during assembly make sure every single connection/wire/joint is correct - do not guess - do not assume anything - if you crash check all wires and replace the props - after intial  assembly(or any later crash)  do a functions test without props - test motor responses and RC control and test your failsafe, all done with props off. Then do a FULL-Power hand test (wear eye protection) called a hand maiden - this power test will confirm all power systems are working 100% correct at WOT (wide open throttle). If any power system hesitates/stuttters or stops - then immediately shut down and do NOT fly - see below notes on how to find any problem in the power train

Question - it wont start up? Props wont spin up, cannot arm BetaFlight? Answer = Safety & Risk - DO NOT INSTALL PROPS until you have learnt the ARM and dis-arm process for the PARIS Sirius AIR3.  OK - so The Flight control will prevent the props from spinning until armed - once armed props can start suddenly - represents a risk and Eye Protection MUST be worn, PROPS OFF  - Step 1. using the Chrome BF Extension GUI make sure you have the correct RC radio travel for channels 1-4  of 1095->1905 and centres are all 1500 ; Now you can choose to ARM by switch - Step 2. go to MODES tab - set your desired Aux Ch and range - press save - 3. test the switch and observe the GUI showing ARMED and Disarmed - and the green tab moving left/right as per the switch position.  Some pilots use "arm by sticks" (but this is not possible unless the props are set to NOT SPIN at start up. Configure TAB - top right -   In recent times with BF and Airmode pilots now prefer to arm by switch - usually Aux 3 ;;  

The Flight control has several otherARM blockers for safety - If the Acc has not been calibrated it wont arm ; if the Baro is on it wont arm ; if the Quad is Tilted it wont arm ; if the Quad was moved during battery power-up when the Gyro calibration was effected it wont arm ; if the RC settings are out range ie not <1100->>1900 it wont arm by sticks.  If Throttle is not below MIN command - it will not arm.

- When i install a Mobius
 the 6"x4.5props they come very close to the Mobius? Answer =  Yes use 5"x4x3 props for Mobius - or better for 6" props ; we recommend the SLIM REPLAY XD mini 1080 cam HERE - or the elevated Yi/GoPro HD Cam tilt-mount HERE (not included)

Question - I am installing the Upgrade 2206 motors - Where can i find out about changes to the install relative to the 2206 motor?  Answer = The 2206 can be installed without soldering (using the GBC push on connectors ) but the build can be achieved much neater, using soldering and Amtech223 - Mount the motors using the 2*M3 screws in the 2206 box, as shown below - then route the 2206 motor wires thru the hole to the ESC underneath, as per our published how-to on Scarab Tips & Tricks - Please see details on the Tips & Tricks article HERE for Scarab Pilots on how we set-up a Scarab Knife 270 for 2206 Race-R motors 

Scarab Knife 270 Quad drone with 2206 motor upgrade

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Product Reviews

  1. Rock solid flyer with

    Posted by Damien Pitt on 24th Jan 2016

    The most capable multirotor I've flown; fast, agile and incredibly precise, this quad just feels absolutely dialled in. Went from being a Level mode only flyer to full Acro on the first flight with this little guy, with the way it responds to inputs you never feel like you have to fight it to do anything, you just know if it does anything, it's because you told it too.

    There are 'cheaper' quads out there at this size but there is something to be said for being able to get an airframe from one place where someone has already meticulously selected the components to ensure the final product flies like this thing does. Additionally, like all Scarab frames it's nice to see something different on the market; in a hobby where every man and their dog is copy pasting the same 'brick' or 'X' design as everyone else, it's nice to have something that looks unique out there, added bonus being the swept back rear arms really do help with visual orientation.

    Only wish I bought one of these sooner than I did!

  2. Tough Quad Flies Great

    Posted by Tom on 23rd Jul 2015

    Scarab Knife is one of my Favs. Very tough and flies great. A perfect everyday flyer. Easy to repair and modify. Love it.

  3. One Shot

    Posted by Andrew Tuck on 30th Jun 2015

    Loving this little guy!! The build was so easy that I think just about any one could put it together. Once after getting the electric installed, I had a problem because I fly with Aurora radio gear, but Multiwcopter and Facebook guys jumped right in and got me going. Very great service!!! I fly at lease twice a day or more and now starting to fly it at night!! Waiting on my FPV set up. Great product!!

  4. Ultra Light and Fast FPV Racer - RCGroups

    Posted by Jason Cole RCGroups on 2nd Apr 2015

    RCGroups Staff Pilot did a Full Review of the Scarab Knife Racer here http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2296201

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