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  • CarbonBird™ Motor - NMB - 1175kv - 225w - 58g - normal shaft
  • CarbonBird™ Motor - NMB - 1175kv - 225w - 58g - normal shaft
  • CarbonBird™ Motor - NMB - 1175kv - 225w - 58g - normal shaft
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CarbonBird™ Motor - NMB - 1175kv - 225w - 58g - normal shaft

Shipping Weight:
115.00 Grams
Stock Remaining:

Product Description

On special promotion USD12.99 now USD9.99 for a limited time only

 CarbonBird™ brushless 225W motors for 8" or 9" props -  feature long 230mm 20AWG silicon wires right from the core windings and factory installed 2.0mm Gold Banana connectors GBC long type. light weight - Custom wound copper packed in tight to give a kva of 1175ka, work well on 3S 12.4v using a 0850 prop or the 8040 triples or the 9050 triples or even the HQ 0950 e-Props.  Importantly -  high end NMB™ miniature metric bearings


  • Rubine Red/Black colour as per photos
  • True 225w motor made for Multicopters (tested to 280w peak)
  • Improved cooling for 2017
  • Larger main bearing
  • Superior windings 28Turns 12N14P,  1280kva measured
  • Full 285mm 20AWG multicore silicon wires with 2.0mm long GBC - see photo - females included in spares if req'd
  • Superior NMB™ bearings - USA
  • Light weight Bell - faster RPM changes
  • Designed by CarbonBird™ 
  • 5mm prop shaft adapter(up to 10mm thick prop)  / conical spinner nut (red)
  • 16mm and 19mm mounting holes M3 bolts - note - excludes button head M3 required -sold separately
  • Motor X-Mount supplied for 33mm holes - bevelled  3.5mm screws included for X if required
  • Works at Low/Medium timing with recommended CarbonBird 18a (aka Turnigy Plush) ESC - Minimum ESc is 18amp


  • 28 diameter x 25mm h ;
  • 3.17mm shaft Ø (1/8" inch)
  • 58g


Power Tests & Recommended Props

  • No load spec :12.07v 0.49amps 13.765rpm - tests = motor actual kv = 1280kv
  • Props tests - see below for recommended props for 3s and 4s
  • suits 8" (4s) or 9" (3s) props
  • 1 x CarbonBird Motor with 23mm wires ; normal shaft - mount side -
  • 1 Prop-adapter 4 petals 5mm Ø  type 
  • 1 X-Mount 
  • 4 x M3 short bevel screws for X only 
  • 1 spare circlip, 1 spare shaft


  • Button head bolts M3 for SCARAB mounts not included - available here
  • Bearings require one drop 10W50 oil every 10 hours running time - not included
  • grub screw requires loctite if replaced
  • We recommend you rough-up the shaft with a diamond tool HERE - before mounting a PA
  • For puller/tractor configuration ~ We recommend a drop of red Loctite™ is put on the 3.17mm shaft/PA  ; before installing the Prop Adapter if used as a tractor motor (as opposed to a pusher motor)
    to remove it - simply heat it to ~100°C for 15 secs and it will slip off
if you ever need them - our Spare bearings are HERE

Thrust Data - Prop selection 

carbonbird-1175kv-3s-8x5.png  carbonbird-1175kv-4s-8x5.png


carbonbird-1175kv-3s-9x5.png        carbonbird-1175kv-4s-9x5.png


Question - How do i reverse the motor shaft to come out the other side? Answer = watch this video 


Question - has this CarbonBird 1175kv motor been used in fixed wing VTOL? Answer = yes ; see the NASA video below

Setup & Maintenance:

  • Aviation requires discipline, inspection and risk analysis - brushless motors form part of the critical aircraft flight system and become your duty of care when purchased and built.
    • WARNING ! If a motor or prop fails a Quad or Tricopter Copter can fall from the sky and cause harm to person or property below - Always do a full pre-flight inspection on Quad motors ; A post flight temperature check for thermal stress (hot motor) - Schedule of maintenance you must perform includes : -
    1. Grub Screw - check the grub screw for security - /Remove and add Blue Loctite® to the shaft grub screw - make sure Loctite® does not enter any bearing!  Always heat the engine to 100°C (domestic hairdryer on hot) before trying to remove a grub screw held by loctite glue.  Loctite becomes very soft when hot.
    2. Collets ( = the aluminium shaft fitted over the steel motor shaft) - On recent Carbonbird motors - the collet is supplied pre-fixed with loctite glue - remove the spinner/washer/collar and feed the motor + collet through the engine mount - then re-assemble the collet.  the collet Loctite'd to the shaft - its supplied like this to stop noobs have the shaft come off because some new to engineering cannot understand how to tighten a collet, and incorrectly go flying on their maiden with the collet half tight ! -   problem is some noobs still DONT understand loctite glue - you have the HEAT loctite'd screws/collets to 100°C first (recommend a domestic ladies hair dryer on maximum heat -> - do not heat the magnets >100°C ) - once heated, then Loctite'd items come undone/out real easy - applying excess force to motor shafts and grub screws which are COLD is a the wrong way to do it - again, its not necessary to even remove the collet as it fits through the engine mount with the collar and spinner removed.  if you do want to remove one after a crash - then HEAT IT FIRST - it will slide off.   Note : a Collet must be attached to a motor shaft with loctite™ to ensure it won't release under vibration; to Remove a collet , remove the spinner, remove the prop and lower red collar, then first heat the inner collet to 145°C with a heat gun (avoid heating magnets) then the loctite will be very soft and the collet will release from the shaft - To remove dried loctite, use the solvent Acetone - normally just place the removed collet in acetone for 20 mins and it will be very soft and wash away easily. The collet/spinner must be torqued to sufficient pressure to hold the collet on the shaft - it should pass a 5kg "pull-test" 
  1. Ensure the Circlip is set (crimped) correctly to hold the shaft in place - inspect closely for any sign of looseness
  2. Carefully apply 1 small drop of OIL to each bearing every 5 hours flight time - with a syringe & needle (new SAE20-50 motor oil) - allow the oil to soak in for 1 min; wipe away all excess oil - oil traps abrasive dust!
  3. Avoid all dusty Landing/Takeoff zones - We recommend Ops from a dust-free rooftop LZ on a 4WD/SUV vehicle or a 1.5m circular plywood dust-free Helipad on the ground to prevent any dust ingress to the bearings.  Abrasive dust entering bearings will shorten the effective life dramatically - inspect the bearngs for wear and replace if worn -Spin the motor - Magnetic cogging will slow and stop the motor which is normal - check for any wear or abnormal sound/roughness/dryness or non-linear friction indicating a bearing failure. 
  4. Use high pressure air (can of comressed air - or air line) to clean any sand,dust, grass or dirt away from an engine after every flight
  5. Inspect the wires to ensure the insulation is in-tact
  6. Check that the collect (Prop-adapter) is tight and cannot be pulled off with 2kg force - Dont assume it's tight - check it in Pre-flight
  7. Use Blue Loctite® to mount the engine screws to the carbon/G10 engine holder.  Check the engine mounting screws never penetrate too far into the engine & short the winding wires
  8. Inspect the prop for any fatigue cracks or white stress lines - immediately repalce any prop suspected of weakness - Routinely replace props every 10 flight hours.
  9. Shaft must be replaced if bent - using a 3mm punch and tapped out - or shaft can be reversed by removing the grub screw and using a bench vise to push it further in and out the other side - then retighten the grub screw
  10. if the motor is observed to be showing some initial warning sign - AN INDICATOR - noted by the pilot but not considered to be a risk by the pilot - and he decided to continue flight ; consider fully the RISK ; this can cause subsequent engine failure and total loss of your aircraft if it has less than six engines. Be aware -
    Risk can lead to engine failure 
    • ingestion of FOD (foreign object damage) dirt, dust, stones or debris which can enter the motor during take off and landing - causing trauma (cuts) to the windings or insulation of the windings, damage to bearings
    • breakage of one or more of the internal lead-in stator winding wires by stress (pulling of the wires during ground handling or assembly) - can be caused in incorrectly handling a motor, crash impact tension, carry the craft by gripping the motor assembly wires causing a break inside a motor.
    • magnetic variation - de-magnetising of one or more magnets by placing the magnets on or against other motors/magnets or in magnetic fields - tapping against metal objects of the can of the motor - this partial de-magnetisation can cause the ESC to overheat the engine because the timing cannot be accurately determined by the ESC. Thermal run-away - engine overheats because it is effectively overloaded - Copter is too heavy.  Overheated magnets are permanently ruined.
    • dry-joints or inconsistent  loose push-connections/soldering between an ESC and a motor leading to timing faults - if one of the three connections is loose or not 100% soldered correct - Should you observe ANY motor hesitation or stutter on first power applied 10% throttle - immediately cut power - do not Power-up further or you will blow the ESC  - DO NOT FLY especially relevant for long wiring runs or self soldered joints - USE solder paste - use a Digital Multimeter DMM to check all 3 wires show the same Resistance in ohms - check the wires for breakage or shorts.  Save your ESC by careful observation of problem indicators.
    • Shorting of any motor wire(s) internally to the metal/carbon booms or too the airframe- INSULATION of ALL WIRES annd joints is vital.  - short of the insulation from sharp carbon edges not filed smooth during construction - leading to timing problems or stuttering - Should you observe ANY motor hesitation or stutter - DO NOT FLY - replace the motor /wires/ESC as applicable to the fault - Beginner fault to observe AN INDICATOR - such as hestition then continue to fly - delibrately blowing the ESc - leading to failure and a crash - Pro-Pilots discontinue flight/Land at the slightest hint(indicator) of a problem - because they realise that warnings are only given once. 
    • Poor bearing maintenance lubrication and/or exposure/ingress of abrasive dust leading to bearing breakdown
    • Failure to balance the motor/prop leading to wear and tear.  Check closely for security ; tighness of all componenets ; security of the grub screws, circlips and the bell.  Be vigilent to check for variations in your pre-flight on all engines
    • Post crash damage re-use - Pease consider a crash has trasferred forces to the motor. a sudden stop from Prop Stike can have drastic effects on a motor turning at 7000 rpm.  Check the bell and magnets to ensure they are 100% true and secure after crash.
    it's VITAL to monitor the temps of all engines on the post-flight check, avoid operations where FOD. dust is a risk and keep motors padded in transport.  It is also recommend to ground the aircraft and 100% locate the cause of any abnormal performance item.
  • NEVER fit the propellers to a motor until AFTER you have fully Tested and set-up the motor and YOU understand that electric motors can start suddenly without any warning.  With proper understanding and maintenance the motors are safe.
  • NEVER run a propeller without FIRST balancing it on a magnetic balancer
  • Do a staic and a dynamic balance of all props for best results
  • Do a hand Maiden - before any flight maiden;  to observe all engines running normally under power applied condition - and all controls responding correctly.
  • During the hand maiden feel the airframe for vibration levels - there should be none - smooth - vibration indicates an out of balance motor/prop and must be traced and balanced.




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Product Reviews

  1. Great little Motors

    Posted by Jamie Ackland on 24th Jul 2016

    Brought these to replace older motors on my Scarab - Easy to drop in and setup. love Carbonbird stuff.. ! These 1175's are totally recommended for 3s Lipo and 4s builds

  2. No balancing reqired - smooth

    Posted by Andrew on 12th Feb 2016

    These 1175 CarbonBirds are TOP stuff - runs with very little cogging and true wattage rating. They cost a little more but CarbonBirds are WAY better motors. my tip - check soldering of power connectors if one motor stutters - most people will direct solder the wires to the ESC anyway.

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