Loading... Please wait...
Click the image above to see a larger version
  • Image 1
  • Image 2
  • These are our recommended settings for a Knife mini quad

ESC CarbonBird 12Amp BLHeli, mini ESC, Active Braking 14.2 OneShot

Shipping Weight:
42.00 Grams
Maximum Purchase:
1 unit(s)
Stock Remaining:

Product Description

These ESC are out of production and being phased out - now replaced by the 18a Opto HERE (no soldering) or the newest ESC the 20a Opto HERE (requires soldering)

CarbonBird 12A ESC BL-Heli 14.2 active braking version, are made for mini-MultiCopters - specifically to run at 3S or 4S  they also feature ultra light weight 9.5 gram construction with excellent thermal properties for a 200 watt ESC - the MOSFETS are specifically selected to run BL-Heli 14.2 with the least amount of heat production and highest efficiency.  This is opposite to the majority of ESCs retrofitted with SimonK/BLHeli which actually run much hotter and are less efficient - We have selected very carefully the BEST mosfets to run on BHHeli -   These ESC are perfect for 3S or 4S pro-spec ops.  For Baseflight or MWii code which is OneShot enabled - these ESCs are OneShot ready too.


Downloads for BL-Heli 14.2
The CarbonBird 12Amp ESC BL-Heli 14.2 ships out pre-programmed and optimised for best performance - done - OneShot is included/Ready - we recommend NOT to alter our BL-Heli settings above - for Scarab Knife mini quads ; However if you wish to alter anything or to DIY upgrade your existing Simon_K CarbonBird ESC to BL_Heli DIY at your own risk, then download the following files

  1. Download the BL-Heli v 14.0 Win 7 program .exe HERE  approx 40mb - Select Blue 12amp Multi - 9600 Baud
  2. First connect ESC to the Linker, then 2nd plug the Linker USB to your PC and finally 3rd the LiPo power the ESC by its power plug. (last) - flashing ESC can result in "smoke" - at your own risk - this is especially true if you use a chip level bootloader clasp over the CPU pins and the pins are not aligned to the cpu pins !  less likely with a 1-wire connector - but esc can still be smoked or firmware damaged needing a bootloader level re-flash by you - wrongly flashed firmware can also smoke your motors !
  3. press connect - then flash the firmware first (Flash BLHeli - it can use the Simon_K bootloader present) - this may need to be done twice in some instances
  4. Then upload the setting for this ESC CarbonBird 12a - by using Our pre-set saved setting for this ESC by .ini file HERE
  5. UART - You can use a USB to UART linker for ATMEL, then download the USB VCP driver HERE for that UART ; Remove the ESC RED centre wire (lift tab and slide out) Make sure you power the ESC using a 3S LiPo to connect to BLHeli & flash, as the USB linker does not provide CPU power for the ESC. After flashing is comleted - disconnect - unplug the servo lead and re-connect the red centre wire (not needed on some hardware UARTS as they have not connected their centre pin at all internally)
  6. make SURE you have the latest version of BaseFlight or CF !
  7. Now for the good part - go back and increase your "P" values ! Obviously this is done in steps of 0.2 frm your previous setup - an oLED is best for this - take it up until 0.3 under any oscillations.

Features / Specifications

The main advantages of BL-Heli software are
Use Active free wheel and active braking (PWM Damping) - 14.0 is OneShot ready for Hero•32 - this actively slows the prop/motor down on one side of your Quad, while speeding the prop on the other - without "active-braking" the prop has to slow by inertia and drag alone - this DAMPING - Light puts the brakes on - the Quad handles better - but you must also increase "P" slowly in 0.1 increments to see the full benefits.

  • Output  200 watt Continuous 12A as 4S, Burst 18A up to 10 Secs.
  • Speed - both 400hz and 490hz compatible - DJi, naze32, cc & MultiWii tested with mni motors to 25,000rpm (actual test here)
  • Heatsink : 1 x heatsinks - superior heat control and EMI shielding
  • JST & GBC ; fitted with JST female and 2.00mm long-bullets (GBC)
  • Input Voltage  3-4 cells lithium battery 
  • BEC  1Amp
  • uSEC range  These are programmed to BL-Heli = idle ≤1064   - mid 1464 -  high throttle ≥1864 uSec ; but (we recommend to set high side to more than >1900 so that advanced stick calibrations will work  - MAG CAL and ACC CAL etc will then work too) so we actually use 1064/1464/1904
  • Size:  40mm (L) * 20mm (W) * 6mm (H)
  • Weight 9.5g
  • Program card - Does not require or use any program card - please note
  • My Motors dont all start together? one is slow - Why - Make sure you first set the Tx RC range in GUI (or oLED) for your throttle Channel to <1064-1464->1900 - then make sure you have any PARIS "modes" off first, ACRO Mode only - then to set a syncronised all-ESC's start together they must LEARN this range - LEARNING wire makes this WAY easier and is fool-proof because they all "learn together" - so again, a correctly setup radio must be used 1064/1500/1900 - If the ESC sees a full throttle high (>1864uSec) at power on, it will go into throttle learning mode and "peep" once - then immediately reduce throttle below 1064uSec - it will "peep" twice - completed (Noobs please note the sound is made by a motor connected to the ESC)
  • 100% compatible with multicopter autopilots such as PARIS AIR , PARIS v5 or DJI NAZA ; Wookong - the red wire as it supply 5v +ve
  • 70mm 18AWG DC input leads with JST ; 145mm 3 phase output  2.0 GBC female - fits all carbonBird motors 2400kv ; 888kv ; 775kv and 1175kv



Important beginner NOTES on ESC set up :  Read this before connecting any ESC !!

  1. DO not connect the ESC back to front - ie reverse polarity - You will smoke it!
  2. Do NOT apply any forces sideways to the output 2.0mm GBC female connectors - you will break them off ! - Use Inox lube - take care to push connectors in straight in using lube a non-conductive lube like INOX for all ESC push connectors. These sprays have short and long term benefits and will ensure a happy long relationship between motors and ESC's. Without lube you will incorrectly revert to brute forces - with lube the GBC slide in with no force and can be removed a year later in perfect condition too.
  3. Do NOT use pliers or steel tools to grip the ESC or connectors, nor squeese GBC connectors - the best method is to use INOX protective lube and push together gently with human fingers - no tools please
  4. One of my ESC is hotter than the others on the ground - Why? This is normal when 4 linear voltage regs are connected in parallel for one to get hotter and from around 35°C or 45°C up to 50°C- check you have a high-grade thermal pad making contact to the non-label side - as long as the hot one is <65°C it is normal - OK ; However if the ESC exceeds 70°C-then it will cut out at 125°C when the thermal protection of the 7805 Reg cut in to prevent risk of fire.  If you have one very hot ESC >60°C and rising you can elect to disconnect/cut the RED wire of the 3 ESC's with the least cooling air and run on one BEC alone (one ESC with best cooling airflow position has its red wire connected) ; or you can disconnect all RED wires and use a separate uBEC HERE (switching Regulator) provided it has smooth 5.00v power.  In most instances in small Quad, one BEC (one with red remaining) is a sensible strategy after programming and throttle learning is completed.  However on a Hex or an Octa its best to use a clean 5.00v uBEC and OPTO ESCs(all Red wires disconnected).
  5. If cutting and soldering wires - make sure to solder all ESC wires with Flux Paste (Not flux core solder) - For push connectors a bad connection (a loose fitting connector)  or dry solder joint(no flux) - will cause the ESC to burn/fail and the motor to possibly burn as well.  Check all wiring with a DMM first.
  6. Does it need programming?  No - You must use the correct throttle range <1064->1864 uSEC (mid point will be 1464) - for MultiWii stick calibration of ACC and MAG you will need >1900 anyway
  7. During first throttle up power check - concentrate on the motor response - if the motor hesitates or stutters - or the prop twitches back and forth - IMMEDIATELY cut power (throttle OFF) - investigate for a broken wire in the motor - a shorted wire in the motor (mounting screw ruptured the windings) - a shorted connector or insulation cut  - or anything blocking the motor from turning (a screw from your work bench trapped inside on the magnets).
  8. To reverse the direction of rotation of a brushless motor exchange any 2 of the 3 motor wires
  9. Use a power meter to ensure you are not overloading the ESC at WOT (full throttle for the prop) - ESC works hardest at mid throttle - so it's useless to think that if you don't fly full throttle you won't overheat the MOSFET because you are not using all the amps - completely opposite - the ESC will overheat if the kv of the motor is too high for the props used.  You must do a WOT check and make SURE at full throttle the MAX amps are 18amps or less for <10secs!!!!!
  10. For MultiCopters - where 4,6 or 8 ESC with BEC's are connected in parallel at 5v - check for temps which are <80°C - the ESC will shut down at >120°C to protect itself internally - we recommend always using Pro-Spec grade thermal pads under the BEC side.  In normal Quad setup these NEW 12amp CarbonBird ESC should only run warm ~35°C-65°C

Write your own product review

Product Reviews

  1. Amazing 12a ESC's

    Posted by Martin Ward on 21st Jul 2015

    I love these. Utterly love them. I run a Knife Air Red with 6045 props and my batts give up before these ESC. I have a small figure eight track in my paddock and I can simply pin the throttle and steer. Tidy, well made and cope with abuse that you simply would not believe. Plug n play - no soldering required. Plug these in and fly - no worries, no hassles, no pain. Beautifully made. How these aren't world famous is beyond me.I keep spares of these in my field repair bin. They are just collecting dust. But to have them on hand is a great cushion. Unplug one, plug a new one in. Simple as that.

  2. Underwater Recovery

    Posted by Paul Wags on 15th Jul 2015

    Put a set of these on my Quad, third flight I lost if doing some crazy death spirals and crashed into a fresh water creek. 35 mins later I found it underwater with the 4S battery still on. I pulled the machine apart and placed all the parts in rice. Next morning I hit them with some contact cleaner and rebuilt the quad. All flying again.:-)

Currency conversion